Look carefully at the forest in front of you. Most of these trees are water tupelo. Do you see the narrow opening between the tupelos? If you walked through that opening, which direction would you be going? (As you face this panel, north is to your right.) This line goes due west and is the 'Baseline' for surveys of 12 of the 13 states formed from the Louisiana Purchase Territory.

The Survey 1815

The official survey of the Louisiana Territory was ordered in 1815 by President Madison to establish a system for distributing this land as payment to veterans of the War of 1812. Commissioned by the United States Government, Prospect K. Robbins, and Joseph C. Brown set out to establish an "initial point" in eastern Arkansas from which other surveys would originate.

Mr. Robbins set a permanent north-south (Fifth Meridian) line while Mr. Brown surveyed an east-west line or baseline. The junction of these lines represented the initial point. Brown's party started westward the same day Robbins began north. The Initial Point was established on November 10, 1815, when the Robbins party crossed the baseline 26 miles west of the Mississippi River. The site was described as "low and contained cypress and briers and thickets in abundance."

The baseline was extended west in 1818, eventually crossing south of Little Rock. Today, Baseline road follows part of it. The Fifth Meridian continued north and provided an orientation for the Survey of Arkansas, Missouri, North Dakota, South Dakota, and Minnesota.

The Louisiana Territory more than doubled the size of the United States. By standing quietly at this site, one can imagine the vastness and solitude of this land and the strengths of those people and who negotiated for its purchase and explored, surveyed and settled it. President Jefferson called the purchase "a transaction replete with blessings to unborn millions of men."

The Swamp

Louisiana Purchase Historic State Park is situated in an unusual habitat - a "headwater" swamp. This swamp differs greatly from the more common "backwater" swamps. Found within the floodplain zones of large streams and rivers, backwater swamps respond to fluctuating water levels with alternate periods of flooding and drying. In contrast, headwater swamps, usually located in the upper reaches of streams or rivers, seldom flood deeply, yet rarely dry up.

Before the days of wholesale drainage and clearing, headwater swamps were common in eastern Arkansas. Though these areas posed hardships for the early settlers, they were relatively easy to drain and clear for cultivation. This trend continues even today and is the primary reason they are fast disappearing.

As you move along the boardwalk, take a moment to look at the unusual plants and listen to the sounds of life in the swamp.

Louisiana Territory 1682 - 1800 Development

In 1682, one hundred and forty years after Hernando de Soto and his conquistadors searched for treasure in the vast regions west of the Mississippi River, the French explorer, La Salle, claimed all the land, resources, and peoples of the "country of Louisiana" in the name of King Louis XIV of France.

During the following years, trading centers such as St. Louis, Natchez, and New Orleans evolved as the mighty Mississippi carried skins, pelts, bear oil and other frontier products to market. By 1721, 8,000 people crowded the French colonies with fierce rivalries developing between the French and the steadily growing numbers of English traders.

In 1762, France ceded the entire Territory to Spain in payment for the aid provided during the bloody French - Indian War (Seven Years' War). Spain, fearing growing American influence in the area, attempted to protect her new territory by placing controls on river trade. But the controls failed and in July, 1800, Napoleon opened negotiations with Spain for the return of Louisiana to France. A temporary treaty stipulated France would not "sell or otherwise dispose of the Territory to any third party," leading Spain to believe their interests were free from American Control.


Raccoons, adept tree climbers, feed primarily on frogs and crayfish and often live in hollow trees.

Swamp Rabbits, large browsers (grazers) feed on the tender twigs, bark and leaves found in the swamp.

Opossums, tree climbing marsupials (pouched mammals), are very adaptable animals that act as predators, scavengers, or fruit eaters.

Resources

Lands along the Mississippi often proved unsuitable for settlement, but did provide an excellent environment for wildlife, especially fur-bearing mammals. Frenchmen recognized the potential trade value and quickly set up a trade network with the Indians along the Mississippi and its tributaries.

Fur markets in Europe provided financial incentives to early Anglo-Americans in this area. Some of the mammals which fed early explorers and clothed Europeans still thrive in the remaining wetlands of eastern Arkansas. Beaver, mink, raccoon, swamp rabbits, opossum, gray squirrels, and occasional deer have adapted to these conditions and tend to live here year-round.

In the Heart of the Swamp

Here, where the water remains the longest each year, you see bald cypress, water tupelo, and buttonbush.

Bald Cypress have graceful tapering trunks, cinnamon red bark and needle-like leaves. Their fruit is ball-shaped, hard and scaly. Bald cypress are often surrounded by conical extensions of their roots above the water, called cypress knees.

Water tupelo can be identified by the fissured brown bark, toothed leaves, and deep purple, olive-shaped fruit. Both trees have flared, buttressed trunks to provide more stability in wet soil.

When buttonbush blooms, it triggers a chain of events that affects life throughout the swamp. Buttonbush plays a surprising, complex role in swamp ecology.

During blooming periods thousands of insects are attracted to buttonbush flowers, and other animals come as predators. This results in high insect populations. These become food for other animals father up the food chain, such as frogs, snakes, and alligators. The livelihood of many swamp residents can be traced to the buttonbush. This illustrates the interrelationships between the plants and animals in a swamp community.

Many of these natural events of life in the heart of the swamp can be observed from where you are standing - on the boardwalk. Water tupelo photo by Carl Hunter.